베이킹에서 밀가루와 물만큼 필수인 재료가 소금이 아닐까합니다. 설탕이나 유지가 들어가지 않는 빵들은 정말 많이 있지만 소금이 들어가지 않는 빵은 찾아보기 힘들죠!
베이킹에서 소금이 어떤 작용을 하기에 이렇게 대부분의 빵에 소금이 들어가는지 궁금하지 않으신가요? 이 글에서는 베이킹에서 소금이 어떤 역할을 하는지에 대해서 자세히 다뤄보려고 합니다.
베이킹에서의 소금의 역할
1. 맛의 밸런스를 잡아준다.
빵과 과자에 소금을 첨가하는 가장 큰 이유는 맛의 밸런스를 잡아주기 때문입니다. 가장 기본이 되는 빵 외에도 단맛이 강한 빵, 심지어 과자에도 소금은 필수적으로 들어가는데요.
빵 맛에 은은하게 깔려있는 소금의 맛은 전체적인 맛을 조화롭게 만들어줍니다. 평소에 빵이나 과자를 먹을 때 짠맛을 거의 느끼실 수 없겠지만 알고보면 그 밑에 은은하게 깔려있는 짠맛이 맛의 밸런스를 잡아줘서 좀 더 깊이있는 맛을 연출하고 있답니다.
2. 빵의 볼륨을 형성하는데 도움을 준다.
소금은 또한 빵의 볼륨을 형성하는데 도움을 줍니다. 빵 반죽에 소금을 넣게 되면 두 가지 현상이 일어나는데요.
첫 번째는 알코올 발효가 억제되어 탄산가스 발생량이 적어지게 됩니다. 두 번째는 소금에 의해 글루텐 생성량이 많아지게 되고 글루텐의 점성과 탄력이 커지게 됩니다.
탄산가스 발생량이 적어지게 되면 빵을 부풀게하는 가스의 양이 적어지게 되어서 빵이 덜 부풀게 된다고 생각하실 수 있습니다. 하지만 소금을 넣으면 일어나는 또 다른 현상인 글루텐 생성량이 많아지는 현상이 더해지면 이야기는 달라지게 됩니다.
결과적으로 탄산가스의 생성량은 적어지지만 글루텐의 형성은 더 많아져 반죽의 점성과 탄성이 커지게 되고 발효로 인해 생성된 탄산가스를 반죽에 더 잘 잡아두게 됩니다.
또한 글루텐 생성량이 적어지게 되면 빵을 성형하는 과정에서 형태를 유지하기 힘들게 되기 때문에 결과적으로 빵의 볼륨이 낮아지게 됩니다.
3. 발효 속도를 조절해준다.
소금은 글루텐 뿐만 아니라 빵에 들어있는 이스트에도 영향을 줍니다. 빵의 볼륨을 이야기하면서 설명드렸지만 빵에 넣는 소금의 양을 늘리면 이스트의 알코올 발효가 억제되어 탄산가스 발생량이 적어지게 됩니다.
발효시 탄산가스가 단시간에 발생하게 되면 반죽이 갑자기 팽창하게 되면서 반죽이 쉽게 늘어지게 됩니다. 하지만 소금을 넣음으로서 탄산가스를 서서히 발생시키면 글루텐 조직이 연화되며 반죽이 잘 늘어지는 상태가 됩니다. 이렇게 글루텐이 연화가 되면 반죽이 무리하지 않고 탄산가스를 잘 받아들이게 됩니다.
또한 이스트는 발효가 되며 탄산가스를 만들어내는 것 외에도 여러가지 물질들을 생성시키면서 빵의 풍미를 더해주는 역할을 합니다. 이 물질들이 반죽에 축적되어서 빵의 풍미를 더해주는데요. 이 물질들이 빵에 축적되는데에는 충분한 시간이 필요합니다.
따라서 소금을 넣는 것은 발효 속도를 조절해줘 빵이 무리없이 부풀게 도와주며 빵의 풍미를 더해주는 작용을 하게 됩니다.
4. 글루텐의 구조를 조밀하게 만들어 반죽의 점성과 탄력이 강해진다.
소금은 이스트에 영향을 주지만 빵의 글루텐이 형성되는데도 영향을 줍니다.
글루텐은 글라아딘, 글루테닌이라는 두 종류의 단백질로 이루어져 있는데요. 밀가루에 물을 넣고 반죽을 해주면 이 단백질들이 합쳐져 글루텐으로 변합니다. 이 글루텐은 그물 구조로 이루어져 있는데요. 반죽을 할 때 더 잘 치댈수록 그물 구조가 조밀해져 글루텐의 점성과 탄력이 강해집니다.
빵 반죽에 소금을 넣게 되면 소금의 염화나트륨 때문에 글루텐의 그물 조직이 더 조밀해지고 반죽이 단단해지게 됩니다. 이렇게 조밀해진 글루텐의 조직으로 인해 반죽이 잘 늘어나게 되고 탄력이 있어 잘 끊어지지 않게 됩니다. 이런 글루텐의 조직은 더 맛있는 빵을 만드는데 필수적인 역할을 합니다.
5. 잡균 번식을 억제해준다.
소금은 잡균 번식을 억제하는데도 도움을 줍니다. 빵을 장시간 발효할 때 빵에 유용하지 않은 균이 번식할 수 있는데요. 빵 반죽에 소금을 넣게 되면 이런 잡균 번식을 억제하는 역할을 합니다.
6. 빵의 구움색을 내는데 도움을 준다.
마지막으로 소금을 넣게 되면 빵의 구움색이 진해집니다. 이스트는 발효하면서 탄산가스와 알코올을 만들어냅니다. 반죽에 소금을 많이 넣게 되면 알코올 발효가 억제되게 되고 그만큼 구울 때 반죽 안에 포도당과 과당이 많이 남게 됩니다.
이 남아있는 포도당과 과당으로 인해 반죽에서 아미노카르보닐 반응(마이야르 반응)이 더 많이 일어나게 되고 빵의 구움색이 더 진해지게 됩니다.
제빵에 사용하기 적합한 소금의 종류
소금도 정말 다양한 작용이 있는데요. 빵을 만들 때는 염화나트륨 함량이 높은 소금을 사용하는 것이 좋습니다. 앞에서 말씀드린 소금의 작용이 대부분 염화나트륨에 의해 일어나기 때문에 가능하면 염화나트륨 함량이 높은 소금을 사용하는 것이 더 맛있는 빵을 만드는데 도움을 줍니다.
또한 소금의 입자가 고운 편이 믹싱할 때 소금이 반죽 전체로 잘 분산되어서 가능하면 소금의 입자가 고운 소금을 사용하는 것이 좋습니다.
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