포카치아는 납작한 이탈리아 빵의 일종으로 치아바타와 함께 이탈리아 빵의 대표주자로 오랫동안 전세계적으로 사랑을 받아온 빵입니다. 한국에서도 이탈리아 빵을 다루는 베이커리에서 많이 판매하고 있고 레스토랑에서 식전빵으로도 많이 나오고 있어 한국인에게도 조금은 친숙한 빵이기도 합니다. 이번 글에서는 이런 포카치아의 유래, 특징 등 포카치아의 모든 것에 대해 알아보도록 하겠습니다.
포카치아란 무엇인가?
포카치아는 납작하게 오븐에서 구운 이탈리아 빵의 일종으로 이탈리아 라구리아 지역의 음식입니다. 포카치아는 피자 반죽과 그 질감과 스타일이 유사한데요. 보통 허브를 곁들이거나 올리브 등의 재료를 곁들여 만듭니다.
포카치아는 포카치아의 변형된 모습이 피자라고 보는 설이 있을 정도로 피자도우와 상당히 유사한편인데요. 피자 도우와 유사하지만 피자도우와는 확실한 차이점이 있는 빵입니다.
포카치아의 질감은 피자 도우와 유사하지만 조금 더 폭신한편입니다. 포카치아의 맛은 폭신한 질감에서 오는 부드러움과 발효된 반죽에서 오는 풍미, 곁들여진 허브의 풍미가 더해져 담백하면서도 강렬한 맛이 있습니다. 포카치아에 곁들이는 토핑이나 허브는 레시피에 따라 정말 다양해서 레시피에 따라 다른 매력을 느낄 수 있는 것도 포카치아를 먹는 재미 중 하나입니다.
포카치아는 식사와 함께 즐기기 좋은 빵이기에 외국에서도 포카치아는 식사와 함께 먹는 곁들임 빵으로 많이 활용하고 있고 한국에서도 많은 양식 레스토랑에서 식전빵으로 활용하고 있습니다.
포카치아의 어원
포카치아(focaccia)는 벽난로 빵을 의미하는 라틴어인 panis focacius에서 유래되었습니다. 이는 전통적으로 포카치아를 굽는 방법에서 유래된 이름인데요. 과거 로마시대에는 포카치아를 석탄재를 이용해 난로에서 구웠기에 이런 이름이 붙었다고 합니다.
포카치아의 유래
많은 역사학자들은 포카치아가 로마 제국 시대 이전 이탈리아 중북부에서 살고 있었던 에트루리아인이나 더 오래전인 기원전 1000년 고대 그리스에서 탄생했다고 보고 있습니다. 다만 포카치아와 유사한 이스트를 넣지 않은 납작한 빵은 너무나 많아 이 빵이 처음 어떻게 생겨났는지 정확하게 알기는 어렵습니다.
초창기의 포카치아는 물, 소금, 올리브 오일, 미량의 이스트를 사용하여 만들었습니다. 이 포카치아는 지금의 포카치아와 비교하면 정말 평범하면서 간단한 빵이었습니다. 이 포카치아는 로마제국이 영토를 넓혀나가면서 주변나라로 퍼지게 되었고 유럽 전역에서 사랑받는 빵이 되었습니다.
조리법과 재료가 간단한만큼 포카치아는 가난한 사람들에게 사랑받는 빵이었습니다. 가난한 사람들과 농민들에 의해 포카치아는 전 유럽에 퍼지게 되었습니다. 그렇게 퍼진 포카치아는 점점 다양한 형태로 발전하며 지금의 포카치아의 형태를 가지게 되었습니다.
포카치아의 발전
전 유럽으로 퍼진 포카치아는 각 지역에서 다양한 형태로 발전했습니다.
포카치아 알라 제노베세
16세기 이탈리아의 제노바시는 올리브 오일, 소금, 로즈마리로 만든 포카치아로 유명해졌습니다. 이 포카치아는 포카치아 알라 제노베세(focaccia alla genovese)로 알려지며 지금도 인기가 많은 대표적인 포카치아 중 하나입니다.
라구리아 변종
포카치아는 라구리아 지역에서 발전해온 빵인만큼 제노바 외의 지역에서도 독자적인 발전을 이뤄나갑니다. 옥수수가루로 만들어 기름지면서 부드러운 볼트리 버전과 비스킷처럼 단단한 포카치아 세카 등 정말 다양한 종류의 포카치아들이 라구리아 지역에서 만들어지게 됩니다.
포카치아 돌체
이탈리아 북서부에서는 포카치아에 설탕을 뿌리고 건포도나 꿀을 첨가한 포카치아 돌체를 먹습니다. 기존의 담백한 포카치아와는 다른 달다라한 맛으로 이탈리아 북서부에서는 큰 사랑을 받고 있는 포카치아입니다.
미국에서의 발전
20세기 포카치아는 이탈리아 외의 다른 나라에서도 큰 인기를 얻게 됩니다. 그 대표적인 예가 바로 미국인데요. 미국에서는 포카치아가 장인 빵 운동의 일환으로 1980~1990년대에 인기를 끌게 됩니다. 오늘날 포카치아는 전세계로 퍼져나가 식사 대용 빵이나 레스토랑의 식전빵, 샌드위치 빵 등으로 사랑받고 있습니다.
포카치아의 특징
1. 포카치아는 납작한 빵이다.
포카치아의 가장 큰 특징은 바로 납작하다는 것입니다. 포카치아의 두깨는 보통 2cm~3cm정도로 납작한 편입니다. 하지만 포카치아와 다른 플랫브레드의 가장 큰 차이점은 포카치아는 일반 플랫브레드에 비해 두툼하면서 폭신한 편이라는 것입니다. 포카치아는 일반적인 플랫브레드에 비해 많은 이스트가 들어가고 어느정도 발효를 거친 후 구워주기 때문에 일반적인 플랫브레드에 비해서는 푹신하면서 볼륨이 있는 편입니다.
2. 다양한 허브와 토핑을 얹어 먹는다.
포카치아는 레시피에 따라 들어가는 허브와 토핑이 달라집니다. 가장 많이 곁들이는 것은 로즈마리나 올리브이지만 레시피에 따라 엄청나게 다양한 종류의 토핑이 올라갑니다. 그 중에서는 피자처럼 정말 다양한 토핑을 올려 굽는 경우도 있어 레시피에 따라 다양한 매력의 포카치아를 만나볼 수 있습니다.
포카치아와 피자의 차이점
포카치아와 피자의 가장 큰 차이점은 바로 이스트 양의 차이입니다. 피자 도우에는 소량의 이스트만 넣지만 포카치아에는 다량의 이스트를 넣습니다. 이스트의 양이 많아지면 반죽이 더욱 바삭해지고 많은 양의 올리브유를 흡수하게 도움이 줘 부드러우면서도 푹신한 포카치아의 질감을 만들어내는데 도움을 줍니다.
또한 포카치아는 피자와는 다르게 볼륨이 중요해서 반죽을 늘리기만 하고 오븐에 넣는 피자와는 다르게 모양을 잡고 추가적인 발효를 거친 후 오븐에 넣고 구워줍니다. 이 과정을 거쳤기에 완전 납작한 피자와는 다르게 포카치아는 어느정도 볼륨이 있는 편입니다.
포카치아를 만든는 법(간단하게)
- 밀가루 500g, 소금 10g, 이스트 7g 물 470g 올리브유 30ml, 토핑재료를 준비합니다.
- 밀가루, 이스트, 소금을 넣고 섞어줍니다. 거기에 따뜻한 물을 넣고 섞어줍니다.
- 반죽이 한덩어리가 되면 올리브유 30ml를 뿌려준 후 냉장고에 넣고 하루 숙성해줍니다.
- 반죽을 오븐 팬에 옮겨준 후 3~4시간 정도 둡니다.
- 반죽이 퍼지고 부풀게 되면 손으로 많이 내줍니다.
- 준비해둔 토핑재료를 올려줍니다. 올리브를 올리거나 감자, 로즈마리 등을 올려주세요.
- 올리브오일 조금과 물 조금을 반죽 위애 뿌려줍니다.
- 210도로 예열된 오븐에서 20~30분정도 노릇한 색이 날 때까지 구워줍니다.
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